No one could be more enthused to run into the bronze and whiskered character of Montalbano in the coastal town of Porto Empedocle than our very own Professors Boyd and Gavioli. This well-known character canvasses various cases through the famous “gialli” (detective novels) of Andrea Camilleri. Port Empedocle, the short visit to start our fifth full day, is the coastal town that inspired much of the setting of Montalbano’s fictional home town of Vigàta. While we were unable to spot the elusive Camilleri at his coffee shop, we enjoyed the chance to walk down the streets of the colorful and odd town.

Every adventure requires a bit of spontaneity and, while it was not the first time, our stop at Selenunte stands out as one moment where I was grateful to be surrounded by avid adventurers. Given the chance to make our way to the acropolis on our own, we carved our own trails through the thick underbrush, over hills, and through tunnels of ancient fortifications. These unplanned moments often gave me the greatest views of places we viewed: whether it be the unvisited rear of the acropolis or the side streets of a great city, it is the road less traveled that yields the greatest treasures.

Hidden in the “chiostro” (cloister), on the capital of a column, was an image of William II gifting the beautiful Cathedral of Monreale to Mother Mary. Monreale is, of course, a spectacularly beautiful cathedral according to its sheer size and liberal use of gold mosaic tiles. Still, as I discussed with Anna Bradley-Webb, it is difficult to rectify the financial cost of such a project when the church’s mission is inherently to serve the people (particularly the poor and downtrodden). If all of these resources were diverted to the community, undoubtedly such a feat of architecture would never have been created. Still, one must not remain oblivious to what such a project truly requires.

Sicily, as I will reiterate throughout my posts, is a place of extraordinary contrasts. Few contrasts stand out more than that between splendor and squalor in the very heart of Sicily’s greatest cities. Amidst the great buildings, high-end stores, and modern pulse of Palermo are the remains of neglected buildings still black from the allied bombing in World War II. It is nearly inconceivable that such spectacular buildings remain unaddressed over 70 years later, yet at almost every turn in the city you were confronted with this stark reality.

From the beginning of our travels in Sicily, it was obvious that our sites of interest would capture a fascinating mix of diverse cultures. Sicily, situated in the Mediterranean between the Continent and Africa and within reach of the Greeks, was constantly changing hands over time. Through its various masters, we have seen an infusion of various styles and influences in ancient architecture and modern street art. Zisa demonstrates this mixture perfectly: here we see Greek, Christian, and Islamic influences together.