After a beautiful visit to Segesta, where we were among the few tourists and hiked through wildflower-lined paths to the Greek theater, Carmelo drove us to Erice, a beautiful town on a hilltop. A group of us joined Carmelo for a walk through the town, and he took us to a castle at the edge of the village, where we could see the ocean and miles of farmland. We had time to walk through the cobblestone streets before heading to Maria Grammatico’s dolce-making lesson and dinner. Maria Grammatico has been making marzipan sweets for over fifty years, and learned her trade from a group of nuns who lived in Erice. She taught us how to make marzipan fruit, tette di monace, and brutti ma buoni, and served us an elaborate dinner. Early the next morning, Mia, Michael and I headed out for a walk. A cloud had descended on the town and the fog was so thick that we could only see a few feet ahead of us. We didn’t see anyone else out so early, and the quiet and fog lent a dreamlike feeling to the village and its narrow streets.