Although some scholars hypothesize that this temple seen in the archaeological park of Selinunte was dedicated to the god, Zeus, the technical name of this structure is “Temple G” since there are no marks found on the site that can be used for conclusive identification. Temple G is located outside the boundaries of the settlement of Selinunte, where there was more space available for building and for the long procession associated with religious rituals; in addition, the site of Temples E, F, and G offers a clear view towards Carthage, a constant threat for the ancient inhabitants of Selinunte. Temple G, in particular, is the 4th largest Doric temple in the Greek world and the 2nd largest in Sicily. Size was a demonstration of strength and a show of force in the ancient world; the width of one of the capitols (seen above) encapsulates the incredible dimensions of this temple. Although this spectacular monument now lies mostly in ruins, the study of this temple provides valuable information about the methods that ancient engineers used in their construction. Unfluted drums can be seen lying among the ruins, showing that the temple was never completely finishes. By measuring the use of angle contractions in the temple design as a dating device, scholars were able to determine that a devastating attack by the Carthaginians on Selinunte had most likely halted the building process. In addition, square depressions can be seen on some of the drums, which were designed as place-holders of lead posts, inserted to keep the columns together. U-shaped indentations can also be seen in some of the blocks, which were used to help lift the massive rocks from the quarry to the building site.
Day 3: Erice
After a beautiful visit to Segesta, where we were among the few tourists and hiked through wildflower-lined paths to the Greek theater, Carmelo drove us to Erice, a beautiful town on a hilltop. A group of us joined Carmelo for a walk through the town, and he took us to a castle at the edge of the village, where we could see the ocean and miles of farmland. We had time to walk through the cobblestone streets before heading to Maria Grammatico’s dolce-making lesson and dinner. Maria Grammatico has been making marzipan sweets for over fifty years, and learned her trade from a group of nuns who lived in Erice. She taught us how to make marzipan fruit, tette di monace, and brutti ma buoni, and served us an elaborate dinner. Early the next morning, Mia, Michael and I headed out for a walk. A cloud had descended on the town and the fog was so thick that we could only see a few feet ahead of us. We didn’t see anyone else out so early, and the quiet and fog lent a dreamlike feeling to the village and its narrow streets.
The Temple at Segesta
In Segesta we visited our first Ancient Greek temple, which was constructed with local stone in the Doric order. The distinct Doric column, whose capital consists of a circle topped by a square, shaft is plain, and possesses no base is clearly visible. Other prominent features of the Doric style on display are the empty rectangular spaces above the columns called metopes, which are separated by an alternating pattern of vertical lines known as triglyphs. Interestingly, the lack of fluting on the columns, presence of protruding stone from the crepidoma (the stepped foundation of the temple), and absence of any niches for the support beams indicate that this structure was never fully completed. Although it is difficult to say exactly why, the reason could possibly relate to Thucydides’ account of the Sicilian expedition, which we have been studying in our Latin class with Professor Boyd. Perhaps the construction of the temple was undertaken by the Segestans as a component of their elaborate ruse to trick the Athenians into thinking that they were wealthier than they actually were. This makes sense considering that in the ancient world the construction of temples was one of the primary ways for a community to display its wealth. When the Athenians envoys sent to Segesta must have seen this temple being built, they naturally assumed that Segesta possessed adequate financial strength and therefore agreed to provide aid.
Day 3: Palermo
During our walking-tour of Palermo, our attention was directed towards various ruins and abandoned floors of buildings that had been left in this state following WWII. In observing the architecture around Palermo, I am constantly reminded of the endless history surrounding much of Sicily. Within one day, we can see gorgeous Ancient Greek ruins followed by giant cathedrals marked by Ionic, Doric and/or Corinthian columns, juxtaposed with the bombings of World Wars and the ominous presence of the Mafia even within cathedrals, as was pointed out by our guide from Adiopizo.
Sunday: jet lag and Palermo
After a long day of travel, we were so excited to reach Palermo. We met our bus driver, Carmelo, who took us to an exhibit of the photography of Letizia Battaglia. Much of her work centers on the mafia, and it was a great introduction to what would be an important topic on our trip. We walked through the city and were struck by the beautiful abandoned buildings.
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